Elsa Schiaparelli
The ultimate surrealist independent, who treated fashion as high art. Her collaborations with artists put wit and shock on a garment long before anyone else did.
What we look forTrompe-l'oeil knits, shocking-pink statements, and surrealist novelty buttons or embroidery.
Paul Poiret
The visionary who freed women from corsets in the 1910s. His house set the shape of the decade before couture had settled into its modern form.
What we look forCocoon coats, orientalist draping, and lampshade tunics.
Jeanne Lanvin
Known for the Robe de Style silhouette of the 1920s and exquisite embroidery. Hers was an independent house founded on the relationship between a mother and daughter.
What we look forRobe de Style shapes, fine embroidery, and the house's own blue.
Jean Patou
The pioneer of upscale sportswear in the 1920s. He dressed the modern athletic woman when nobody else was designing for her.
What we look forEarly geometric knits, art-deco tennis dresses, and monogrammed sportswear.
Madeleine Vionnet
The undisputed queen of the bias cut. Her gowns drape and close without fastenings because the cutting does the work.
What we look forBias-cut gowns, architectural draping, and garments that fall correctly with no closures.
Gilbert Adrian
Hollywood's premier costume designer, who became an independent couturier. He gave the 1940s its shoulder.
What we look forDramatic sharp-shouldered 1940s suits, and gowns with film provenance.
Charles James
America's first true couturier. He worked independently and treated a ballgown as a mathematical, structural problem.
What we look forSculptural ballgowns, complex seaming, and internal structure that holds its own shape.
Claire McCardell
The independent mother of the American Look. She made casual, functional luxury respectable.
What we look forDenim wrap dresses, popover silhouettes, and practical closures on fine cloth.
Ceil Chapman
Hollywood's favorite mid-century cocktail dress designer. Her shapes are recognizable across a room.
What we look forIntricate draping, ruching, and atomic-era bombshell cocktail shapes.
Pauline Trigère
A fiercely independent French-born American designer. She cut her patterns directly on live models.
What we look forStructural capes, outerwear, and the house's turtle motif.
Jacques Fath
With Dior and Balmain, he dominated the 1950s New Look fantasy. His cutting was the most inventive of the three.
What we look forAsymmetric collars, glamorous 1950s silhouettes, and dramatic necklines.
Mainbocher
The elite independent American couturier who designed Wallis Simpson's wedding dress. His work is quiet where his contemporaries were loud.
What we look forQuiet luxury, impeccable tailoring, and exceptional fabrications.
Tina Leser
A trailblazer in global resort wear. She brought textiles home from her travels and built collections around them.
What we look forHand-painted textiles, 1950s play-suits, and resort separates.
James Galanos
An uncompromising independent master who rejected mass production. His ready-to-wear was made to couture standards.
What we look forMeticulous hand-work, beaded evening pieces, and interiors finished as carefully as the outside.
André Courrèges
The king of Space Age minimalism. His 1964 collection reset what modern could mean.
What we look forStructural vinyl jackets, white go-go boots, and geometric shift dresses.
Bonnie Cashin
The independent mind behind Coach's original aesthetic. She designed for how women actually moved and carried things.
What we look forCanvas and leather-bound coats, industrial brass toggle hardware, and layered separates.
Rudi Gernreich
A radical independent avant-gardist. He pushed at what clothing was allowed to do.
What we look forGraphic knit mod mini dresses, unisex pieces, and bold color blocking.
Paco Rabanne
Famous for chainmail and plastic link dresses. He built garments rather than sewing them.
What we look forEarly space-age link dresses, metal discs, and moulded plastic components.
Mary Quant
The face of the London Youthquake. She made young clothes for young people at a moment when that was new.
What we look forMiniskirts, playful mod coordinates, and the daisy mark.
Biba by Barbara Hulanicki
The ultimate cult independent label of 1960s London. Its shop was as much the point as its clothes.
What we look forArt-nouveau romanticism, dark berry palettes, and the Biba logo.